I’ve added the following real world examples to the Ray Ban Original vs. Fake / avagy Igazi vagy hamisítvány guide:
- Original Ray Ban RB3025 – 55mm – arista gold frame, green lens
- Original Ray Ban RB3025 – 58mm – gunmetal frame, Polarized green lens
Recently I’ve got 2 new piece in my Photography gear:
- Tamron SP-AF 70-300 F/4-5.6 Di VC USD
- Røde VideoMic Pro
My plan with these is to make quality videos, with pure engine sound from Drift and other racing events in Hungary.
The “Ray Ban Original vs. Fake / avagy Igazi vagy hamisítvány” guide has been updated.
- The guide has been translated to English
- Fixed several spelling errors
- Added an example for Fake from my collection
- Added an example for Original from my collection
Car : Toyota GT86 powered by 2JZ Toyota engine, 850bhp, 900nm, 1250kg, suspension KW
via 500px http://ift.tt/1MnlXzB
A couple of weeks ago I’ve got my 50mm back. I had to return it because it had some serious front focusing issue.
The replacement looks okay, I’ve performed a live-view AF micro-adjustment test, this one and I only had to add +2.
I’m using it for a while now, it’s definitely worth the money, but I think it’s recommended to use it between f/2.8 and f/11.
For example at f/1.8 you will likely to see a lot of chromatic aberration and ghosting.
Like in this image:
Don’t get my wrong, the sharpness it’s pretty good, the bokeh is okayish, but you need to fix that chromatic aberration…
Here is the full size, fixed version:
But considering the amount of money it costs, it’s still the best way to get better than the kit lens cheaply. I highly recommend it to anyone, but you will need a little bit of luck to get a good copy.